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Karmann Ghia Engine Tech Tips & Procedures

Before attempting any maintenance or performance work on your engine, you'll need to positively identify what engine is installed in your Ghia. Your car is probably at least 30 years old now, and chances are, a lot of people have worked on that engine, or even replaced it entirely. Below is a table of all "upright" engines installed in Type 1 Volkswagens, and  their details. It's worth noting however, that the Engine Code only identifies the case itself. That case can be modified to accept different cylinder and piston combinations, resulting in different displacements and power outputs. Certainly, there are engines in use today that have no Engine Code at all, such as the unit currently installed in my 1969. I'm led to believe it's a 1500cc from Mexico, and I tune it based on that assumption.

 

Engines used in Volkswagen air-cooled models

 

Year          

Code 

Displacement (cc) 

Bore (mm) 

Stroke (mm) 

HP (SAE) 

1954-1960

A

1192

77

64

36

1961-1965

D

1192

77

64

40

1966

F

1285

77

69

50

1967-1969

H

1493

83

69

53

1970

B

1585

85.5

69

57

1971-1972

AE

1585

85.5

69

60

1973-1974

AK, AH, AM   

1585

85.5

69

46

1975-1977

AJ

1585

85.5

69

48

I'm not going to get into performance stuff and non-stock engine issues because truthfully, I know nothing about them. Other people know a lot more about hopping up a VW than I do, so I'll leave it to the experts. This page is designed for the new Karmann Ghia owner who just wants the basics of looking after his/her car. When I've replaced a specific part, I've documented it on the My Cars page explaining why and how I did it. The only thing that qualifies me to write this page is that I've never taken a VW to a mechanic for a diagnostic or maintenance procedure since buying my first car in 1989. I've had parts replaced by mechanics when I don't have the time or tools (such as ball joints and wheel alignments), but everything else I do myself, and you can, too.

Step One is to find and buy the Official Factory Repair Manual published by Robert Bentley Publishers. Every Karmann Ghia owner who plans to work on his car needs the manual. You will not be happy relying on the glovebox handbook, Haynes, Chilton's, AutoPress, AutoBooks, Floyd Clymer, Scientific Publications, Glenns or "Complete Idiot" books. Don't kid yourself - no matter how attractively priced the above publications are, they are not nearly as good as the real deal. The Official Factory Repair Manual is also known as the Bentley Manual, Big Blue Bentley (regardless of color, for some reason), the factory manual, or simply the Bentley. You can find cheap used copies on www.ebay.com, and at www.abebooks.com. New copies are available at www.rb.com, and www.amazon.com among others.

I will add to this page as the mood strikes me, but if there's an engine related tech procedure you'd like to see added, by all means email me and I'll write one up.

Carburetor adjustment: Solex 30,31 PICT & 34 PICT-3 and 4

Before attempting to adjust carburetor, make sure that valve clearances, ignition dwell angle (point gap) and ignition timing are correct as per the specifications in your Bentley Manual. The engine must also have signifigant compression ratio and be free of intake or exhaust leaks.

  1. Start engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached.

  2. Check to ensure choke plate is fully open. If not, adjust choke by backing off the three retaining screws and rotating the choke heater element housing).

  3. Turn the throttle valve adjustment screw (#1 in the image) out until there is clearance between its tip and the fast idle cam. Then, turn the throttle valve adjustment screw in until it just touches the fast idle cam. From this position, turn the throttle valve adjustment screw in an additional ¼ turn.

  4. Slowly turn the volume control screw (#2) in until it just comes to a stop. Do not over-tighten the the volume control screw. It has a needle point tip, and if you over tighten it the tip gets jammed in the fuel passageway, breaks off, and renders the carburetor useless. Once it's gently seated, back it out 2½ to 3 complete turns.

  5. Connect a tachometer to the ignition system.

  6. By turning the bypass screw , adjust the idle speed to 800 - 900 RPM.

  7. By turning the volume control screw (#2), adjust to the fastest obtainable idle speed. Then, turn the volume control screw in (clockwise) until the idle speed drops by 20 - 30 RPM.

  8. Again using the bypass screw (#3), re-adjust the idle speed to 800 - 900 RPM.

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